Features of Bemberg lining

Basic information : Detailed information about fibers

Regenerated fiber and semi-synthetic fiber

Category Specified term (Trademark) Manufacturing method Special features Cautions
Synthetic fiber Regenerated fiber Cupro (Bemberg) A cellulosic fiber made from cotton linter. Asahi Kasei is the only manufacturer in the world. Highly absorbent, smooth feel, and suppresses static buildup.  Since each fiber in the yarn is fine with a circular cross-section, the material has excellent smoothness, a silky texture and touch.  The luster is close to silk and the fabric is often used in linings. Droplets of water or rain may cause water stains.  Avoid scrubbing and wringing hard when washing. (Creases easily)
rayon A cellulosic fiber made from wood pulp. The filaments in the yarn are thicker than Cupro, and shaped like a chrysanthemum in cross-section.  The smoothness and texture is different from Cupro.  In addition to regular rayon, a stronger fabric is made with polynosic rayon (high degree of polymerization, crystallinity) Droplets of water or rain may cause water stains.  Avoid scrubbing and wringing hard when washing. (Creases easily)
Semi- synthetic fiber acetate Similar to rayon in the sense that it is made from wood pulp, but acetate is manufactured by adding acetic acid to cause a chemical reaction.  It combines the qualities of cellulosic fiber and synthetic fiber. Absorbency is about half of Bemberg and rayon, and static builds easily.  Outstanding color development and clarity.  Shaped like plum blossoms in cross-section.  Smoothness and drape are inferior to Bemberg and rayon if the fabric is sheer. Frictional strength is inferior to Bemberg and rayon.  Will melt if acetone or thinner is used to remove stains.

Synthetic fibers

Category Specified term (Trademark) Manufacturing method Special features Cautions
Synthetic fiber Synthetic fiber nylon There are different types of nylon depending on the raw material.  Nylon 6, which accounts for most of the nylon production in Japan, and Nylon 66, which has excellent heat-resistant properties, are most common.  Nylon 6 raw material: Caprolactam Nylon 66 raw material: Hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid An extremely strong fiber with high resistance against friction and crease.  Excellent elasticity, resistant to wrinkles.  Even if it gets wet, it hardly absorbs any water and dries quickly, easy to launder.  However, absorbency is poor and static builds up easily. White nylon fabric has a tendency to change color when exposed to ultra-violet light (sunlight), but not as much as silk.  Drying in the shade is recommended.
polyester Polyester is produced in the largest numbers of all the synthetic fibers.  The fiber is made from synthetic polymers composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester and a dihydric alcohol and a terephthalic acid.  Raw material: Ethylene glycol (propylene glycol, butylene glycol) and terephthalic acid Extremely strong fiber with no change in strength when it gets wet.  Strong abrasion resistance.  Wrinkle resistant.  Hardly any change in the strength even when exposed to sunlight.  Almost no absorbency, does not stretch or shrink when laundered, wrinkle resistant.  Heat-setting properties, retains pleats and creases when laundered.  However, since it has no absorbency, static builds up easily. May absorb dirt through contamination and darken if washed together with heavily soiled items, or left to soak in washing liquid for many hours.

Plant fiber and cocoon fiber

Category Specified term (Trademark) Manufacturing method Special features Cautions
Natural fiber Plant fiber cotton Fiber obtained from the flower. The main ingredient is cellulose (cellulosic fiber) comprising 90% of total weight.  Cotton is produced worldwide, and is broadly divided into three categories depending on production area and length of the fiber. The tips of the fiber are rounded, soft and feel pleasant on the skin.  Excellent at absorbing water and humidity.  Absorbs liquid sweat and gaseous sweat for smooth comfort.  The individual fibers are tubular and nearly flat like squashed macaroni, and the hollow cores contain air.  Cotton tends to wrinkle when washed, but so called shape memory processing techniques, which improve wrinkle resistance and shrink resistance have been developed. Cotton products dyed with dark colors tend to bleed when damp or left to soak.  When laundered in water, restore the shape to the original proportions, and let dry naturally.  Avoid tumble-drying.

Types of cotton

Fiber length Ultra-long and long fiber (28.6 - 38.1 mm) Medium fiber (22.2 - 27.8 mm) Short fiber (20.6 mm or less)
Type Barbadense (scientific name) Upland cotton Desi cotton
Designation of origin Egyptian cotton, Sudanese cotton, Peruvian cotton, Indian cotton, American Supima cotton, Chinese cotton American cotton, former Soviet cotton, Australian cotton, Chinese cotton Indian cotton, Pakistani cotton
Use Rarity, a high-quality clothing material.  Silk-like texture. Comprises 90% of the world's cotton, used as a material in almost all clothing. Flannel, canvas, mattress filling, absorbent cotton etc.
cocoon fiber silk Silk is collected from the cocoon of the silk worm.  There are domesticated silk worms and wild silk worms.  The domesticated ones are raised on the leaves of the mulberry tree.  The caterpillar molts repeatedly before turning into a mature larva that spins a cocoon in a figure of 8 around itself.  The silk from the cocoon is a double filament of fibroin protein held together by a colloid substance called sericin to form a single strand.  One cocoon produces about 1500 meters of filament with a mass of 2 to 4 dtex.

Silk fiber cross-section
The supple and beautiful qualities of raw silk taken from the cocoon are due to the fibroin.  Sericin, on the other hand, feels hard to the touch, so it must be removed to create the soft and lustrous fabric.  The process of removing sericin from the raw silk is called degumming.  Degummed silk fabrics are woven from raw silk that has been degummed, and raw silk fabrics are woven from raw silk.  The fabric is graceful and lustrous, supple and drapes well.  High moisture absorbency. Becomes chafed and frayed when worn. Poor resistance to sweat, rain and water.  Avoid wearing on rainy days as the fabric may bleed. Avoid sunlight because the fabric tends to yellow when absorbing ultraviolet light.  Since the fibers are protein, the fabric may develop mold or attract moths when stored dirty or in a warm place.  Fabric may turn whitish due to chafing or fraying while worn.
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Bemberg™ is a trademark of Asahi Kasei Corporation in Japan and other countries.